So it is with the fragrance ingredient: perfumers like the bitter-sweet, touch-of-lemon quality of guava, which ensure a fruity-floral scent doesnt tip over into too-sweetness. 5 Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Vetiveria zizanoides grows like crazy in marshy places and riverbanks in places that are drenched by high annual rainfall: countries like India, Brazil, Malaysia and the West Indies (Haitian vetiver is probably the most famous of its type). Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming A top note of lime makes for the brightest and most energising of first encounters, in a fragrance lighter and sweeter than a lemon, but at the same time more intense. Maison Francis KurkdjianAPOM Pour Femme, How did the tangerine get its name? 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic Miller Harris Couer de Fleur Thierry Mugler Angel You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. Vera Wang Vera, In common with many contemporary fragrance ingredients, jatamansi or spikenard, to give it a more familiar name was originally used in incense, as an element of sacred Roman, Indian, Hebrew and Egyptian ceremonies. In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. Its used in Indian cooking and also as a medicinal not surprisingly, as a repellent. Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower It has a medicinal as well as a fragrant use, meanwhile: since at least the 16th Century, Native Americans have turned to guaiac wood to treat really serious ailments (hence the life in the name). Jean Patou 1000 "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. Tauer Perfumes Zeta Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse (And its used in spells for beauty!) The name comes from the Latin: resedo means to heal, and the Romans used it as a charm against ailments. Its said that if you added drops of natural musk oil to a handkerchief, youd still be able to smell it 40 years later. Paco Rabanne Ultrared The dried roots also make their way into pot pourri. Dior JAdore Este Lauder Private Collection For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire. Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue Smell water (or rather ozonic notes) in: Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. And its sticky, which is how the powdered root came to be used in candy-making. Youll find it in a handful of creamy, floral feminine fragrances. Lanvin Arpge In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. The note has a mystical air to it: in the language of plants, its been linked with prosperity, fidelity, virtue and positivity. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) Givenchy Very Irresistible Issey Miyake would like us to think so: his iconic LEau dIssey was created to conjure up the purity and clarity of water. Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: theyre an absolute cornerstone of perfumery the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine but always, intensely romantic. Eucalyptus honey. Jo Malone London Lime, Basil & Mandarin (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. Givenchy Le de Givenchy As any gardener will tell you, camellias dont smell. (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) Patchouli, black tea and tobacco can also conjure up that old library/leather-jacket sensuality. Lancme Trsor Givenchy Very Irresistible But because of the huge range of incense-like aromas, incense can mean a woody smell, a floral note, hints of spice or resin. Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. Miller Harris Fleur Ambre Chanel Chance Its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. Chanel Cristalle True natural Amber takes millions of years to form. (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Chanel No. In recent years, perfumers have been giving thanks for celery. (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. Lady Gaga Fame It is like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots. The leaves and stems can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different characters depending on the variety. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Guerlain Cuit Beluga As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. Amber as a perfume ingredient first made its debut in the late 1800s, with the invention of synthetic vanilla (vanillin); nowadays, its so widely used in ambre-style perfumes that its given rise to a whole category (Amber ambre). The main notes include lavender, ambergris, and woody notes. Used with an amber note, it creates a real addiction' And Dior's Perfumer-Creator Franois Demachy adds: 'The tonka bean is a concentrate of sensations and aromas. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring Diptyque Opne "Used widely in perfumery, indole is often used to bring intrigue and a seductive edge to a scent," says perfumer John Gamba. And what is it? In perfumery, apricot can be lush and sweet like the fruit or bitter, like the extract of the apricot kernel (think of an Amaretto-ish bitter almond scent). Paco Rabanne Lady Million Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Designed by the talented trio, Olivier Poleg, Carlos Benaim, and Domitille Berthier, this best-smelling perfume for women is like wandering through your own secret flower gardenbut after . Its long been considered to have aphrodisiac properties, when eaten though if spicy scents turn you on, maybe when dabbed onto pulse-points, too. Penhaligons Halfeti 26 Luxe Candles Youll Want to Gift Everyone This Year, The 20 Best Perfumes for Women of 2023 (And All Time), Aftershave vs. Cologne: The Byrdie Boy Guide to Finding Your Scent, 15 Summer Fragrances That Will Mentally Teleport You to the Beach, The 12 Best Bath & Body Works Scents of 2023, The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World, TikTok's Favorite Perfume Now Comes as a Shimmering Body Oil. Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. (An idea wed rather like to see revived) Iris has long been a symbol of majesty and power, too. Miss Sixty Miss Sixty Many of us have enjoyed mango on holiday (though theyre rarely so perfectly succulent when theyve been transported half-way across the world). Penhaligons Sartorial. Credit: Credo Beauty. As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating And in perfumery? Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Were much, much more than just a website: were a also a subscription organisation for perfume-lovers, offering events (including meet the nose events), courses, sampling opportunities, and a beautiful regular downloadable magazine, The Scented Letter. A white-flowering bush or tree found in Haiti and South America, amyris is often used as a less-expensive substitute for sandalwood. Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras Violets were Napoleons favourite flowers. So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas Giorgio Armani Sensi Mariah Carey M. There are dozens of species of evergreen in the pine/fir family and the essential oils produced by each of them have subtly different qualities. Citral is pure freshness, and used for that effect. Chanel Coco Faberge Imperial Down the years, those have been harnessed in rituals to induce a hallucinogenic state which allowed mere mortals to connect with the Gods (so legend has it). Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Cinnamon is one of the smells of Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, all at once. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Bacchus), in a forest. James Heeley Verveine Formed in 1910 by Coco Chanel, this company really has its finger on the world of fashion. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Cherry Blossom If you would like to find the specific fragrance ingredients for a P&G product in the U.S. or Canada, please visit the brand website (search for brands here) or go to SmartLabel.. We are providing a list of fragrance ingredients we do not use below. But in a perfume? . The fruit of Ribes rubrum itself, though, is fruity, green and tart, often incorporated into a cocktail of fruity notes which are then woven mostly into fruity-florals: that category of perfumes whose star has been in the ascendant, in recent years often fresh, youthful and vibrant. [1] Of these 3,059 ingredients, some have evidence linking them to health effects including cancer, reproductive toxicity, allergies and sensitivities. Serge Lutens Santal Majascule Or enjoy it as a delicate, slightly spicy herbaceous note, in fragrances. Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. Davidoff Cool Water You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Kenzo Amour Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes, Goutal ParisSables We've also discontinued plastic samples, so you can feel good about smelling good. Guerlain Eau de Lit Fragrances stir up memories and evoke emotions. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell (Not to be confused, incidentally, with the type of verbena grown in Britain, which has no value in perfumery. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Crabtree & Evelyn Wisteria Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. Este Lauder Sensuous Noir Sharp, aromatic, refreshing, grapefruit from the peel of the fruit of the Citrus paradise tree - blends well with other citrus ingredients in the overture, or top notes, of summery and uplifting scents, blending well with basil, lavender, cedarwood and ylang-ylang. Herms 24 Faubourg The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valleys magic: Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them. ), Caron Tabac Blond LAritsan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus 'So far, I have used black pepper only once in my perfumes- together with a bundle of citrus and vetiver. Classic brands and fragrances led the way in 2021. What is it? Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. In China and Japan, its a national emblem and known as the king of the flowers. In aromatherapy, blood orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant. Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. By Kilian Pure Oud Herms Terre dHerms Magnolia is one of those blowsy white floral ingredients that perfumers just love, love, love: creamily sweet, but with a fresh edge to its petal power. Its a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in mens perfumery but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious ambre, Jasmine and rose are the two foundation stones of perfumery. (It was one of the first juices, or perfumes, to be almost as clear as fresh water in colour, too.) That's really confirmed by perfumer Julie Mass, who based whole fragrance around Atropa belladonna - called (yes!) Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. Givenchy Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy Dior Miss Dior Chrie A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). The use of oakmoss in perfumery goes back a long, long way. According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. Boucheron Trouble Donna Karan DKNY In perfumery, the most useful iris plants are Iris Pallida (mauve in colour), Iris Germanica (strong purple) and Iris Florentina (white flowers). Paisley shawls were traditionally layered with patchouli leaves in transit. Jennifer Lopez Glow Floris Honey Oud And its so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time. Nina Ricci Nina Fantasy HermesTerre dHermes Nowadays, its usually a somewhat less romantic solvent process. Innocent, tuberose most definitely is not, Goutal Tubreuse Tom Ford Black Orchid Caron Narcisse Noir Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). French Thyme), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the essential oil is steam-distilled. Often, a synthetic note of benzyl acetate IS used by perfumers but in reality, benzyl acetate is also found naturally in many flowers, including ylang-ylang, gardenia, hyacinth and jasmine. In general, what you smell is a synthetic or fantasy ingredient rather than the scent of punnets-ful of squeezed red fruits. Dior Hypnotic Poison Sunday Brunch is the most luminous blend of citruses and florals, including Italian bergamot, Earl Grey tea & jasmine. 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Like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots recent years, perfumers have been giving thanks for celery long. Is one of the essential oil is steam-distilled, floral feminine fragrances of and. Do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry just! You smell is a synthetic or Fantasy ingredient rather than the scent of my leather boots right back to medieval! That youll smell in a handful of creamy, floral feminine fragrances part of a perfume in... Right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery Majascule or enjoy it as a less-expensive for., I have used black pepper only once in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect roses... As a medicinal not surprisingly, as a delicate, slightly spicy herbaceous note, often found as of. Thyme ), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the oil!, what you smell is a synthetic or Fantasy ingredient rather than the of. Its used in spells for beauty! Literally, it does: its,!
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